what about this boat?

rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭

I found a boat out in tx, 2004 with 415 hours on it.  I'm trying to get more info on it and the owner is a little vague- I don't think he is hiding anything per say but rather sounds like he does know a lot about the technical end of the boat.  With this many hours, what specific service questions do I need to ask him? Bellows replacement common by this time/hours? He said all service is up to date.  It's in an area of Tx that the reservoir is going dry so he wants out of the boat...looking at the map there really is no other water around for a big boat like this. Pictures look good and it might be worth a trip out there to look at it...and a fresh water boat which really excites me.  What do you think?

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Comments

  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Sarasota, FlPosts: 1,289Member ✭✭✭✭
    Is there a link, specs or pics? Not much to go on aside from, that's an awful long way from SW Fl. How many hundreds of boat deals would you be driving past to get to TX. What happened to the 270 in Largo?
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭

    largo one I have not looked at but it did not have a trailer, but, I don't really know what it could be bought for... it was 35 I think.....this one has a trailer and is asking 28500...http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2004-Rinker-270-Fiesta-Vee-372341

    I would think if I showed up with 25 grand in hand I could drive home with this one....thanks for the input! He has a "guy" that works on all his stuff so I can not get a detailed service history.  What is the replacement cycle on the bellows? Risers? The Gen has 130 hours on it.

  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭
    and it's a fresh water boat which really means a lot to me....I will put it in salt water but would rather start with one that wasn't in salt!
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Sarasota, FlPosts: 1,289Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2013
    Get a survey from a certified marine surveyor who specializes in that type of boat who's not related to or recommended by the seller. Make sure that there's a nice long sea trial where the surveyor monitors engine temps and goes through all the mech components too (a Merc cert mech with a computer reader is ideal).

     Risers and manifolds every 4-5yrs in saltwater, longer in fresh water no doubt. Ask the surveyor if he has a moisture meter and checks for water logged hulls and stringers(a must). Run that genset at least 45mins either at the dock or wherever it's safe. Operate all the seacocks.

    (SURVEYOR LINK TIPS)

    Ask the seller for dozens of better pics of the engine and outdrive (from every conceivable angle and even under the engine) along with PDFs of the maintenance work records. Look for signs of rotten wood and water/structural damage.

     A handheld IR heat gun is a must for checking on hot spots. Not just on the boat but especially axles and tires when you're driving it to the seatrial. How old are the tires (life span is only 4-5yrs. ck for the mfg seal) and don't depend on honesty about the brakes and bearings for a pull like that. Pull the hubs and re-pack them and double check the brakes and fluid for rust & mung. By the way, that boat is an oversized load requiring permits in most states.

    Make sure your deposit is held by a reputable 3rd party before driving all that way and that your offer is contingent upon absolute proof of a clear title, survey and seatrial. Don't get emotionally attached.

    Good luck, Mike
    Post edited by TikiHut2 on
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDPosts: 1,085Member, Moderator ✭✭✭✭

    I agree with Tiki, get any info you can before going out there, including more and fresh pictures.  That age of boat, bellows definitely should be changed.  Risers/manifolds can depend on a number of things, but they at least should've been pulled apart and looked at sometime over the last few years.  Maintenace records are a good thing as well. Things like oil changes (engine & outdrive) for every year, impellers every other year, plugs should've been done.  The number of hours is reasonable.  If the generator has low hours, that may be issues.

    Don't get so hung up on salt vs fresh water.  It really doesn't mean a lot if taken care of.  If you see any in the MD area, let me know.  We have a ton of Rinkers around this part.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭
    I have contacted two companies in Austin off the web site you gave me, thanks....not much sense in my flying out there...I can check the motor over ok but not the other items you mention so will head your advice! Cheaper anyway I'm sure...any idea what the cost should be? I'm concerned if there is any water to put the boat in, does not look like much around there and I don't know if the ramps are usable with the low water but working that out....what are the costs for a manifold/riser replacement? I can't imagine I can't do it myself but maybe not...more concerned about the bellows but I guess at a shop they make pretty quick work of that....what a process! I'm seeing a lot of boats drop off, assume either sold or just gave up until next year...I want my boat now for this winter season!
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Sarasota, FlPosts: 1,289Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2013
    I think I paid $350 for my survey. He spent 2hrs going over everything and taking pics on the hard then they splashed the boat and another hr doing a seatrial. It included a through report and a complete check of the hull/stringers with a moisture meter, and a basic engine overview. It was worth the money and I was there when he did it, including the sea-trial.

    He did spot a few things I missed but overall it was a very easy survey with the boat having been well maintained and documented, initially sitting in a rack at ground level and the fork lift standing by to launch. All the records of work done were readily available and the mechanic was on-site in the yard at Burnt Store marina, who I also talked to prior to the offer. There was no trailer in our deal and it went for $30k at 7y/o with a brand new fuel tank (yike$$), brand new risers and headers, genset service and impeller, seawater impeller, OD removed and serviced w/new bellows. All that happened because the fuel tank removal necesitated removing the engine/OD and genset so the mech went all the way through it while it was out. Glad it wasn't my bill.

    I can't remember what the prior owner had paid for a bellows update for a single B3 but It's probably $600-900 all up.

    If you search in Fl/GA/Al I'm sure you'll find your boat w/o trailering 1000mi.......Did I mention that you should call on the boat in Largo if it's still up there?? You never know what they'll take until you try. If you find a fairly local 270 (within say 200mi. NOT TX) w/o a trailer you'd be welcome to borrow ours for a few days to go get it... I might even lend a hand if I'm available. Just sayin'. Mike
    Post edited by TikiHut2 on
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭
    and what the heck are sea cocks? Also, are there different types of heads? I see different things about them but assume they are all the same.....macearator?
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 2,191Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Sea cocks are the valves letting water in/out through the boat hull. Generator and toilet are examples. Basically ball valves.

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 2,191Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2013
    Here is a picture to help!  Unlike this picture, the hoses should be all double clamped.
    Post edited by Black_Diamond on

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • RinkerYanRinkerYan Solomons, MDPosts: 2,302Member ✭✭✭
    All my seacocks are leaking. I need to reseal them over the winter. My boat yard said it was due to keeping the boat on a lift for 10 years. In fact I have never seen a seacock not leak at some point.  :x
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 2,191Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    That's the problem with any hole..a leak waiting to happen.  Here's some food for thought on resealing those:

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭
    Thanks for the info Mike and Rinker and Diamond and the offers! The owner is on vacation for a week or so.  Gives me time to set up a survey- I wish you could tell on boat trader how long something has been listed....I'll keep looking around in the meanwhile, it's a long way but worth it for the right boat!
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDPosts: 1,085Member, Moderator ✭✭✭✭
    RinkerYan said:
    All my seacocks are leaking. I need to reseal them over the winter. My boat yard said it was due to keeping the boat on a lift for 10 years. In fact I have never seen a seacock not leak at some point.  :x

    Not sure of the relation unless that means they don't use them.  I move mine routinely and have had boats on lifts for 8 years now.  Our marina has over a hundred boats on a lift and , well, I've worked on a bunch of them.  Never heard of seacock issues (well, I did see my first one on a buddies boat last week, but he just bought it last year and started lifting it)

    Back to topic, keep us updated Ras & good luck!

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • RinkerYanRinkerYan Solomons, MDPosts: 2,302Member ✭✭✭
    They are not leaking thru the inside of the ball valve but probably around the thru hull fitting. The valves are good. The fitting will have to be pulled and resealed. 
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Sarasota, FlPosts: 1,289Member ✭✭✭✭
    Seacock....yeah I guess we've all been one at some point. But I digress :D

    That's a great link that BD posted for tweaking leaky fittings. Filled with great techniques. It's the same guy who I got my hull/gelcoat restoration system from. He's the definition of OCD and thankfully does a great photo journal on boat maintenance issues for us visual learners.

    As for the new boat, do your best and try not to get crazy but follow the basics of prudent boat shopping and you'll be ok. Above all know that you won't ever find a PERFECT used boat if cost is an issue. Just know what your limits are and don't be too enamored to walk away. Distance would be a big limiter for me for many reasons. Good luck, Mike
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭
    We are going to push the button on this over the weekend, get a purchase agreement in writing before I schedule the survey and then finalize the offer based on the survey....getting close! getting ready for one heck of a road trip from the Orlando area......will update later next week!
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDPosts: 1,085Member, Moderator ✭✭✭✭
    Good luck Ras!  Just make sure you are completely satisfied before leaving the money and walking away with the boat.  Looks like you will be having a great winter aboard! 

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • NotamemberNotamember Posts: 1,153Member ✭✭✭✭
    Rasbury, call an insurance provider and get the trip bonded- try to use a company who is not your regular insurer.. it could be money well spent... make it independent of your regular boat insurance to eliminate argument about circumstances, if a circumstance presents itself... if something, God forbid, happens, you can thank me later. :-D
  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 1,644Member ✭✭✭✭
    rasbury - great advice re insurance from DA. MT
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭
    What is the difference between my regular insurance vs. what your suggesting? Had never heard of that before....and I'm not counting my chickens yet but do hope it works out.  I will sell my boat in the spring when more people are looking or we may just keep it...would be nice to have a little bow rider to throw in the river and it's darn near brand new.....
  • NotamemberNotamember Posts: 1,153Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2013
    bonding it will be for the hauling/transport alone and will not have bearing on your insurance rate.  If anything were to happen during transport, it would fall on the bond- which in the precise writing of that policy will entail transport alone.  Your insurance coverage will cover to-and-from the water (as in launching), and the boat during use and storage- there may or may not be a 'trailering' clause in it, but if there is, it is one of the places insurance policies nail consumers with add on costs..

    if you have an incident while transporting the rig to your home area, the bond will cover the value of the boat so long as it was on that trip and during the specified dates the bond has value.  it is dang hard to question, but if you're relying on insurance and annual policies to cover the transport, there will be questions galore..

    a bond, for instance, would cover catastrophic loss of property with little resistance, if any, where as insurance would cover a road debris bouncing up and taking a slice out of gel coat. Insurance wouldn't be too happy if there was 100% loss of property and only 1/4 or less of the policy paid for the year- they'd without doubt look for escape.. a bond, they've already got every penny and they are playing the odds nothing will happen.

    I'd bond it for the value of the rig+trailer, and $100k in property damages, while relying on car insurance to cover the remainder of loss of property if there is any... I'd make sure the bond covers anything from damages resulting in loss of, say, 20% to 100%. 

    you may find that a transport bond is just as cheap as the 'trailering' addition to your annual policy- but one that doesn't give nooks and crannies for an adjuster or attorney to hide out in..


    edited to add: something like this

    or, like THIS one

    just look around.. it'll likely cost you nearing a benji, but be well worth the cost if something happens.
    Post edited by Notamember on
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭
    I will for sure check into this! You all have thought about so much more stuff than I had considered, hope I'm not jumping in over my head but then I've spent my life so far doing just that....guess otherwise I'd just sit at the house!
  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 1,644Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2013
    DA has said it well. Getting specific transportation insurance will cover loop holes in your policy and that of the transporter. I have heard of private haulers simply declaring bankruptcy when totalling a boat on a bridge overhang and your present insurance probably wouldn't cover a private haul from a distance. As well, should something go wrong - and that's why we carry insurance right? - your claim against a specific purpose event insurer - other than your company - should not count against your main house/car/ boat insurance as a claim. To make it simple it would be source of cheap, safe and financially wise peace-of-mind. BTW I've been in over my head too many times to count - that's how - in my opinion - things get done! :-)  MT
    Post edited by Michael T on
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭

    I'm a little confused on how these brakes work...surge brakes vs electric/hydraluic: If the brakes work when the the vehicle brakes engage causing the trailer to move forward and compress the cylinder to activate the trailer brake, what happens when you back down a ramp? Boat and trailer weighing more than the truck, seems like the whole rig would end up in the water if you can't activate the brakes! Likewise, if your backing up a driveway or incline, would not the weight of the boat cause the brakes to engage since all the weight would be moving forward? Electic/hydraulic would seem to be the way to go but I don't think the boat I am working on has that, just surge....someone un confuse me please!

  • AlswaggAlswagg Posts: 378Member ✭✭✭
     As for backing down the ramp.  Surge will activate especially the disc brake versions.  These will simply stop you in your tracks.  So, there is a brake release solinoid which is electronically activated. Ie the 5 th wire.  This wire is activated to have B+ when your back up lights or the vehicle is put into reverse.  This stops the hydrolic pressure from applying pressue to the calipers.  As for backing down the ramp, no big deal.  simply go very slow, if you would not be able to hold the load while backing down, there is no way you would be able to pull it out.  Tire traction is the same, whether you are backing down or pulling out.  Note, surge braking systems can all be changed to a solid hitch mount with electric over hydrolic brakeing system.  Good luck  Al
  • NotamemberNotamember Posts: 1,153Member ✭✭✭✭
    I pulled an F450 King Ranch off the ramp a few winters ago.. he was lucky I was walking the dog around the neighborhood at zero dock o'clock.. he had been flounder gigging with about a 24' flat bottom fiberglass boat with twin 200's on the ****.. he lost traction due to skum that builds up on the ramp at high tide, and it exposed at low tide.. w/o the suns assistance to dry out and burn off, it is slick as a cats back side.. he was spinning all four in that thing, and losing ground.. I had him literally tie it off to a street light post, and went and got my truck to yank him out.. it was pretty funny... to me, anyway... without his trailer brakes, that dude would have splashed one fine truck.

    electric brake controllers have an "OH SH!T" switch... familiarize yourself with it's location.. you set the load by getting your load rolling at no more than 15 or so MPH, reach up and grab the switch to it's first setting, which is applying the brakes as they will on the road- you will want the trailer to be able to slow you down all by itself, but NOT lock up.. a gradual slow, in other words, and by the trailers brakes all by themselves.. This ensures the brakes are set sufficiently for the weight of boat, which makes the trailers brakes almost independently responsible for the boat.. almost.. if done correctly, whilst driving and braking, the trailer will apply brakes to about the 80% threshold before tires locking up.. your truck will handle the rest easily.

    the OH SH!T switch- when pushed past the 'settings' setting, and full on to the stop, will lock the brakes up.. in a situation where you have to slam on the brakes, you are to grab and slam that O-S button/switch to lock up the trailer.

    I despise surge brakes.. they will beat the crap out of your tow rig..



     
  • AlswaggAlswagg Posts: 378Member ✭✭✭
    Ya, I have to laugh at dually trucks at the ramp.  Talk about no traction.  Too much tire pressure and ground contact.  Not enough traction to pull themselves from anything but dry pavement.  Odd how we routinly pull 25k lb boats easily with our Suburbans.   Key to pulling heavy loads form the ramp.  Lower air pressur  in all tires down to 30lbs max. Never ever have dually tires if possible.  Add about 50 gallons of fuel in the tank.  Put the Tcase in Low and walk out easily.   Let the Gov lock engage if needed.  Al
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 606Member ✭✭✭

    Yep, did a little of the google and learned about a lock out pin or otherwise locking up the trailer from applying the brakes when reversing. When you park the trailer, say on a little incline of a driveway, can you somehow activate the brake? I know it needs to be chalked also, but brakes locked would be a nice assist. Would for sure prefer the electric/Hyd..suppose most that own these larger cruizers do not trailer much and these are cheaper and will get the job done.

     

    Thanks all for the input.....see this line? _______________ my head is under that somewhere as I'm way overhead!

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