First oil change completed

JoeStangJoeStang Metro DetroitPosts: 895Member ✭✭✭✭
Just hit 20 hours last weekend so I needed to do the "break-in" oil change. A couple local places wanted $200+ for just the oil change, and were pushing to change the drive lube too (even though the manual states absolutely nothing about the gear lube needing to be changed early),

I've got a 276 Captiva Cuddy with a 350Mag ECT

So, instead I headed to my local marine store and bought the following:

1 gallon Mercury 20W-40  (92-858088K01) $38
1 quart Mercury 20W-50 (92-858087K01) $10
1 Mercury Racing Oil filter (35-881126K01) - High efficiency & higher capacity $20
1 Mercury Crankcase Oil Pump (802889A) $38

So, just over $100 in supplies. Def could get cheaper online, but I like getting stuff locally so I know I get the right stuff.

I ran the engine at idle until I saw it hit 160*. I gave it a couple short runs at ~2k rpm to try to get the oil nice & warm. Quickly after shutting off the engine I hooked up the oil pump to the dipstick via the threaded fitting (its actually a water hose fitting, FYI). It took maybe 4-5 pumps before the oil started flowing, but after it started it went very fast. I'd estimate that it took under a minute to get all the oil out.

I pumped the oil into a 5+qt oil container I had from my car, so I could see exactly how much oil I had extracted. It basically sucked out just over 5 quarts (which I believe is almost exactly how much was in the pan because the dipstick was reading right at the Full mark). It must have been a little full from the factory, because capacity is supposed to be 4.5 qts.

I then let it sit for maybe 15-20 minutes because I knew the oil filter was going to be messy. Its nicely located right at the top of the engine, but it faces down, so as soon as you unscrew it the oil spills right out. I wrapped the metal bracket it sits on with a towel and placed another one in the bilge directly under it, as I didn't want it getting under the engine. I needed to get it off with a strong strap wrench, but it came off pretty easily and without too much spillage.

I put on the new filter and made sure it fit under the engine hatch, as its quite a bit taller. It didnt touch a piece of a gum I put on top of the filter, so it should be fine.

Filled it up with 4.5 quarts and it was barely in the "good" range, so I gave it another 1/2 quart and its right in the middle. I suspect the new filter is probably a 1/2 qt more, and I'll probably add in another 1/2qt to get it right at the top of the hash marks.

Overall it was probably the easiest & cleanest oil change I have ever done. I'm used to crawling under lowered cars with double sumps and no clearance, so this was a joy. Definitely worth the time and knowledge that I know it was done right. Plus I got to listen to some tunes, drink a beer, and get some sun.

I know it was wordy, but thought it might help someone that wants to try it themself but isnt exactly sure how. :)

2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3


  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,074Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nice tip Al!  I'll try the vent hole next oil change and the rubber glove, hopefully less mess.

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Posts: 2,038Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2013
    I can't find a picture.. :-( .. do merc filters have a hex fitting on the bottom of them?

    Great write up!! And great tips!! Only thing to add for folks doing it the first time is: add a sheen of new oil to the filter gasket before you spin it on, and don't gorilla grip it- seat it, and turn it another half turn.. :-)
  • PartsManPartsMan Fairport OhioPosts: 246Member ✭✭✭
    Al , Thanks tip. Is this why the oil filter is so hard to get off? 
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,074Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Most people WAY over tighten oil and fuel/water separators, that's the problem.  Oil the gasket as noted by Drew, turn until you feel the gasket contacting, then snug it down.  The seal will swell with heat/oil and seal just fine.  You can do this by hand, the wrench usually just lets you easily over tighten.

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • PartsManPartsMan Fairport OhioPosts: 246Member ✭✭✭
    Yea I only snug mine down. Every year its a bear to get off. Was thinking it was because of the pressure since the filter is elevated.
  • BabyboomerBabyboomer Louisville KyPosts: 918Member, Moderator mod
    I use a zip lock plastic bag to remove the filter unscrew zip it up and dispose also make a rope out of paper towels to clean up the area around the filter.

    Slip 866 Sunset Marina Byrdstown Tn
  • JoeStangJoeStang Metro DetroitPosts: 895Member ✭✭✭✭
    Thanks guys, yeah forgot the write-up to coat the rubber seal, but I always make sure to.

    Great tips with puncturing the filter and rubber glove trick, that would help for sure. I probably always put the filter on a tiny bit tighter than what is needed (by hand), but I fear it coming loose and major engine damage (I'm speaking about for my cars too). I have to use the wrench to take it off regardless, so I figure better a little too snug than too loose.......
    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
  • mvnmvn Uxbridge, OntarioPosts: 586Member, Moderator mod
    edited August 2013
    This is what happens when you can't get the oil filter off.   I had to chisel the GD thing off even though the gasket is lubed prior to installation and it's only tightened by hand.   Figure that one out.   It's never happened to me before. 

    I still have the scars! 

    Good,  fast,  cheap.... pick two. 
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Posts: 2,038Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ouch.. they sure can adhere... :-(

    I've seen countless filters leave their gasket behind because they weren't oiled, and then stack against the new gasket on an oil change.... I've seen that end with a blown engine once... Those are pretty good numbers, but it could be very different... It always seems to be the small things that cost hugely, and that particular small thing is a big thing, as it turns out...

    Jtkz: I figured you oiled it, I just also figured I'd interject it for folks tackling their first diy oil swap..
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Holland, MichiganPosts: 4,074Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ouch!  Been there too, screwdriver through the filter removal too.  Ideally you get the socket adapter that fits the filter flats, but if you strip it out you are back to destructo removal or use the pliers type wrench (not the band type)

    2003 342FV "Black Diamond", 350 MAG MPI, 20P 4x4 Props, PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • JoeStangJoeStang Metro DetroitPosts: 895Member ✭✭✭✭
    I had to use a band-style wrench to get the filter off, and even then I had to make sure I was clamping on the area near the threads, otherwise it was crushing the filter.

    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
  • Strother85Strother85 Posts: 34Member ✭✭

    Im getting ready to complete my 20 hour oil change on my 276 this week (350 mag ECF).  I picked up the oil and filter but I did not get the crankcase oil pump yet.  Where did you end up picking this up at?  Im hoping to do the oil change within the next 3-4 days as we have a trip to the Les Cheneaux islands planned for next week and therefore I don't want to wait for online shipping if possible, just in case it does not come in time.  I have one of the suction canister style setups but this seems like a much easier option...

    I have not called around yet but from a quick google search no local vendors pop up...if you don't mind where you picked yours up I would appreciate it.  Im in metro Detroit.  thanks!

  • JoeStangJoeStang Metro DetroitPosts: 895Member ✭✭✭✭

    I got the oil extractor from blue water marine on south river road in Harrison twp. West marine has a version too, but I wanted just the pump, as I use an old 5qt jug to pump the oil into.

    Blue marine also has the high capacity/efficiency filter in stock too. It's like $20 but looks and feels much higher quality than the oem filter

    2013 276 Cuddy ~ 350 MAG / B3
  • Strother85Strother85 Posts: 34Member ✭✭
    cool, thanks for the info! 

  • bigal6030bigal6030 Posts: 157Member ✭✭

    I can not figure out why boat oil changes are so much money. $160 is commonly quoted to me.

    Big Al - 2006 - 270 Express Crusier

    Home port: Hammond Ind.

  • Michael TMichael T Posts: 6,196Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2014


    Post edited by Michael T on
  • halifax212halifax212 Halifax NS CanadaPosts: 173Member ✭✭✭
    I always use the oil drain hose that pulls through the drain plug. Seems people use the extraction pump method. Joe, does the new 350 still have this feature or has Merc done away with this?
  • Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Pittsburgh, PAPosts: 3,223Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    I always use the oil drain hose that pulls through the drain plug. Seems people use the extraction pump method. Joe, does the new 350 still have this feature or has Merc done away with this?
    My 2008 280 has the drain hose thru the plug. The PO of the boat never used it. It was still in the place where it came from the factory. Moving it and using the attached drain plug was one of the first things that I did to my boat. It makes the oil changes much easier.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA
    Go Steelers!!!
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 4,085Member ✭✭✭✭
    I also did my first oil change when I bought my 270/ 350 MPI motor- what the heck is the oil pump being changed?
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